Crossing the Iron Curtain in an “Ulm Box”

A Journey Down the Danube in June 1961
In 1961, twenty-one members of the Society of Danube Friends in Ulm travelled down the Danube River from Vienna to Budapest—crossing the border into communist Europe along the way.
For centuries, the 
Danube
deu. Donau, slk. Dunaj, hun. Duna, hrv. Dunav, bul. Дунав, ron. Dunărea, srp. Дунав, ukr. Дунай, ukr. Dunaj, srp. Dunav, bul. Dunav

The Danube begins at the confluence of the Breg and Brigach rivers, whose springs are both located in the central Black Forest . It is 2857 km long and today flows through Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania, Republic of Moldova and Ukraine. Before it flows into the Black Sea, it fans out to form the Danube Delta, which is now an ecological reserve.

 has served as a route linking 
Ulm

Ulm is a large city in the east of the German state of Baden-Württemberg, on the border with Bavaria. The university city is located on the Danube at the edge of the Swabian Alb and has about 126,000 inhabitants. It was first mentioned in documents as early as 854. It is the first major city on the course of the Danube.

 with Eastern Europe. Since the Middle Ages, the city has been an important point of departure for journeys downriver, initially by raft and, from around 1570 onward, also by ship. Among these were the so-called “Ulm Boxes” (Ulmer Schachteln), light wooden vessels that were dismantled and repurposed at the end of each voyage. They carried goods to distant markets and merchants and transported soldiers to war zones.1 To meet this high demand, boats were already running regularly between Ulm and 
Wien
eng. Vienna

Vienna (population in 2025: 2,040,914) is the federal capital and the political, cultural, and economic center of Austria. More than one-fifth of the country’s population is concentrated within the city limits, and as much as one-third in the Greater Vienna area. Vienna is of particular historical significance as the capital and, by far, the most important royal seat of the former Habsburg Monarchy. Today, Vienna is home to the headquarters of several important international organizations.

Historische Orte
Austria
  (
eng. Federal State of Austria, eng. Austria, deu. Österreich, deu. Bundesstaat Österreich
)
Austria
  (
eng. Republic of Austria, eng. Austria, deu. Österreich, deu. Republic of German-Austria, deu. Republik Deutschösterreich, deu. Deutschösterreich, deu. Deutsch-Österreich
)
 by 1712. In the eighteenth century, many of the roughly 400,000  Danube Swabians
Danube Swabians
Three hundred years ago, thousands of people from different German regions emigrated to Southeastern Europe. Today, these emigrants and their descendants are called "Danube Swabians". Their story is one of departures and encounters, of cultural exchange and peaceful coexistence, but also of war, expulsion and deportation.
Danube Swabians
Danube Swabians
Three hundred years ago, thousands of people from different German regions emigrated to Southeastern Europe. Today, these emigrants and their descendants are called "Danube Swabians". Their story is one of departures and encounters, of cultural exchange and peaceful coexistence, but also of war, expulsion and deportation.
2 also migrated along this route to the 
Kingdom of Hungary
hun. Magyar Királyság, deu. Königreich Ungarn, lat. Regnum Hungariae, slv. Kraljevina Ogrska, hrv. Kraljevina Ugarska, slk. Uhorské kráľovstvo, ron. Regatul Ungariei, pol. Królestwo Węgier, srp. Краљевина Угарска, srp. Kraljevina Ugarska

The Kingdom of Hungary (Magyar Királyság) existed in changing borders since the year 1000. Already in the early modern period it fell to the Habsburg Monarchy, in which it later became the most important of the so-called Lands of the Hungarian Crown (also Lands of the Holy Hungarian Crown of St. Stephen or, after 1867, also called the Hungarian half of the Empire). Unlike other Habsburg territories - such as the lands of the Bohemian Crown or the Archduchy of Austria itself - the Kingdom of Hungary never belonged to the Holy Roman Empire.

. In 1897, the use of “Ulm Boxes” came to an end. In 1961, the Ulm Society of Danube Friends Ulm Society of Danube Friends Founded in 1961, the Ulm Society of Danube Friends (Gesellschaft der Donaufreunde Ulm e. V.) continues to organize journeys of replica historic Ulm Boxes down the Danube to this day. The vessel now serves as a symbol of Ulm’s ties to communities along the Danube, although various predecessor organizations used it over the course of the twentieth century to convey very different political messages. The first voyage, organized by the Tourist Association (Fremdenverkehrsverein) in 1914, aimed at the “revitalization of the Danube” and “publicity for Ulm,” while in 1938 the “Association of Danube Friends Ulm–Neu-Ulm” sent an Ulm Box to Vienna in 1938, flying the swastika flag. was founded, building on the efforts of earlier groups who had kept the memory of these journeys alive through regular commemorative voyages to Vienna.
At a time when connections to Eastern Europe could no longer be taken for granted, the Society of Danube Friends took up this tradition, setting out on a voyage from Vienna to 
Budapest

Budapest (population 2025: 1,676,000) is the capital and largest city in Hungary. It is located in the center of the country, on the Danube. Budapest was formed from the merger of the cities of Buda on the left bank and Pest on the right bank of the Danube. Pest was already the capital of Hungary from the beginning of the 11th century and from the 13th century often alternated in this function with Buda. When the both cities were merged as Pest-Buda during the revolution in Hungary in 1848, they already formed a single entity. After the restoration of the monarchy (from 1526 as part of the Habsburg Monarchy), however, this merger was abolished in 1849 and re-established 1873. In this context the Hungarians replaced the Germans as the majority in the city. After the collapse of the Habsburg Monarchy in 1918, Budapest remained the capital of a now independent Hungary. After Hungary's entry into the Second World War on the side of the German Reich in 1941, most of the city's Jews were ghettoized in 1944 and later deported to concentration camps or murdered. The 1956 popular uprising against Soviet tutelage in Hungary began in Budapest. In connection with the uprising and its suppression, the capital lost around 70,000 people. Today, Budapest is not only the country's largest economic and cultural center, but also one of the most important in East Central Europe.

. Their aim was to “cultivate Ulm’s cultural ties with the cities along the Danube”.3 And so, in June 1961, an “Ulm Box” crossed the Iron Curtain for the first time.
At the same time, interest in Western hard currency, together with the growing use of state-controlled tourism as a tool of propaganda, led to the gradual opening of the once impenetrable political border to controlled Western tourism.
Shortly after the trip, various local and regional newspapers in Ulm reported on the “adventure”4. Most of these articles reproduced, often verbatim, a travel account written by one member of the society. Together with a photo album preserved at the Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseum, these sources offer a vivid impression of the journey.

“A Bold Undertaking”

On 23 June, the Stadt Ulm was moored at the Nußdorf quay in Vienna, ready to depart. Twenty-one passengers set off on the journey. From there, it was roughly fifty Austrian river kilometers to the Czechoslovak border. Organizing the voyage beyond this point had involved a considerable administrative effort.
 

Everyone knew it was a bold undertaking—not just because of the river conditions, which are of course more challenging for a vessel of this kind […], but because of the formalities required for a journey like this—along the Czechoslovak stretch and into Hungary.

Ulmer Tagblatt, 29.6.1961
In both 
Hungarian People's Republic
hun. Magyar Népköztársaság, deu. Volksrepublik Ungarn, deu. Ungarische Volksrepublik

The People's Republic of Hungary was a socialist state in East Central Europe that existed from 1949 to 1989. The occupation of Hungary by the German Wehrmacht began in 1944, followed by the Red Army, which occupied the entire country in 1945. After the end of the war, attempts to establish a democracy failed and the political system was successively transformed into a one-party system under communist leadership.

The People's Republic of Hungary was a member of the Warsaw Pact and was under the strong political influence of the Soviet Union, which violently suppressed the Hungarian uprising in 1956 with the help of the Warsaw Pact states (except Romania). To appease the population after the wave of reprisals against the participants of the uprising, economic and political reforms were introduced in the 1960s that went beyond the usual restrictions in the Eastern Bloc. In connection with the economic crisis of the late 1980s, further economic reforms and extensive political liberalization as well as opening to the West were gradually introduced, which also heralded the end of the socialist People's Republic. In 1989, the present-day Republic of Hungary was finally proclaimed.

 and 
Czechoslovakia
ces. Československo, sla. Čehoslovakìâ, deu. Tschechoslowakei, slk. Česko-Slovensko, rus. Čehoslovakiâ

Czechoslovakia was a state existing between 1918 and 1992 with changing borders, names, and political systems. Its territories are now part of the modern-day states of Czechia, Slovakia, and Ukraine (Carpathian Ukraine, occupied by Hungary in 1939 and transferred to the Soviet Union in 1945). After 1945, Czechoslovakia came under increasing political influence from the Soviet Union. After the communist party seized power in 1948, the country finally became part of the so-called Eastern Bloc, a satellite state of the Soviet Union, and a member of the Warsaw Pact from 1955. Between 1960 and 1990, the communist country was officially known as the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic (abbreviated to ČSSR). The democratic political change was initiated in 1989 with the Velvet Revolution and culminated in 1992 with the founding of the independent Czech and Slovak Republics.

, entry and exit were subject to strict regulations.5 Securing permission for the voyage proved particularly complicated, since it was unclear “under which category this peculiar floating craft […] should be registered.”6 The Danube Friends obtained official authorization from the Hungarian authorities for the boat to pass through Czechoslovakia. On the assumption that “those who did not intend to land in the ČSSR would not require a visa,”7 it was decided that such a document for the crew could be dispensed with.
Upon their arrival in the border town of , the crew were in for a surprise. More than a thousand people, along with the mayor, members of the town council, and even the town band, had gathered to welcome the Ulm Box and its passengers.8

“Farewell to the Western Hemisphere”

At around seven o’clock the following morning, the Danube Friends set off on the second stage of their journey. Near Hainburg, the Danube became a border river, first separating Austria from Czechoslovakia, and then Hungary from Czechoslovakia. The travel account describes how, after only a short distance, the passengers realized they had crossed not just a national boundary, but an ideological one:

A few kilometers beyond Hainburg, whose charming skyline […] offered us a final glimpse of Austria—or rather, of the Western hemisphere—Czechoslovakia already appeared on the left bank. […] From that point on, we became quieter: no more lighting firecrackers, no more singing […]. We didn’t know what to expect from the border authorities of the two countries, nor how the local people would respond to us.

Ulmer Nachrichten, 1.7.1961.
The crew of the Stadt Ulm documented the moment they crossed the Iron Curtain in photographs, including the first watchtower on the Czechoslovak bank. They were travelling along a stretch of the Danube that, under the  Paris Peace Treaties of 1947
Paris Peace Treaties
also:
Treaty of Paris, Paris Peace Treaty
The Paris Peace Treaties were signed on February 10, 1947, following the Paris Peace Conference held between July 29 and October 15, 1946, and formed an important component of the postwar order in Europe. They regulated relations between the victorious powers of the Second World War and the European allies of Nazi Germany: Italy, Finland, Bulgaria, Romania, and Hungary. The treaties imposed limits on troop strength and armaments, determined reparations, and redrew borders. In Hungary’s case, for example, the provisions of the Treaty of Trianon (1920) were effectively reinstated, requiring the country to cede territory to Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, and Romania. The other former allies of Nazi Germany also ceded territories, including to one another.
, had been assigned entirely to Czechoslovakia—together with a strip of the right bank.

“Boat good, people not good.”

Despite close surveillance along the border, the Danube Friends were at first able to travel unhindered. It was only shortly after 
Bratislava
deu. Pressburg, hun. Pozsony, deu. Preßburg, slk. Prešporok, slk. Prešporek, deu. Bratislava

Bratislava (population in 2025: 480,902) is located in southwestern Slovakia on the Danube River, which forms the border with Hungary and Austria. Bratislava was first mentioned in 907, although the city is likely much older. It was situated at the crossroads of Slavic, Magyar (Hungarian), and German influences. From the 10th century onward, Bratislava was mainly under Hungarian influence, and from 1536 to 1783 it served as the capital of the Kingdom of Hungary. Since the founding of Czechoslovakia in 1918 until today, Bratislava has been the capital of Slovakia and the most important political, economic, and cultural center of the state, which has been independent since 1993.

Historische Orte
Bratislava
 
 that they were stopped for inspection: the fact that the boat had an entry permit while the passengers did not prompted one of the officers to remark in halting German, “Boat good, people not good.”9
The river police then insisted on certain stamps that the travelers were supposed to obtain thirty kilometers upriver—an impossible task for a vessel designed only to travel with the current. In the end, the officers themselves made the trip to obtain the stamps and then allowed the Ulm Box to continue its journey, on condition that a Czechoslovak police boat escort it to the border.

“Hardly any traffic”

The police escort continued to accompany the Danube Friends along the next stretch, where the river formed the border between Czechoslovakia and Hungary. Here, they noted a phenomenon characteristic of this border region: “[O]n the bridge between Czechoslovakia and Hungary, there is hardly any traffic,” reads the caption in the album beneath a photograph showing a deserted steel bridge.
In the first half of the twentieth century, this area had changed hands several times between Hungary and Czechoslovakia. Whenever in control, each government had settled its own population there and expelled or suppressed that of the other side. As a result, relations between the two states were still tense in 1961, and crossing the border was possible only under strict conditions.10 

An Improvised Overnight Stay

The officials in the Czechoslovak border town of  allowed the Danube Friends to pass, even though they were unable to reach their superior, whose authorization was officially required for their departure. At the Hungarian border station in 
Komárom
hun. Del-Komárom, hun. Újszőny, deu. Komorn, slk. Komárom, slk. Maďarské Komárno, slk. Nové Komárno, slk. Južné Komárno

Komárom (population in 2024: 19,862) is located in northern Hungary on the Danube. It was founded under the name Új Szőny as a suburb of Szőny, but in 1896 it was incorporated into the town of Komern (Slovak: Komárno), located on the northern bank. After the city center north of the Danube was occupied by troops from the newly established Czechoslovakia, the southern part of the city remained Hungarian under the name Komárom. Szőny was incorporated into Komárom in 1977.

, where the group was cleared by customs for entry into Hungary, they were met by representatives of the state-run travel agency IBUSZ. In the early 1960s, most of the bureaucratic requirements for entering Hungary could only be handled through this agency. IBUSZ’s primary function was to facilitate travel within the socialist bloc, but also to regulate foreign tourism in Hungary.11 
The travel agency had also planned the Hungarian leg of the Danube Friends’ journey in meticulous detail. An overnight stay in 
Esztergom
deu. Gran, lat. Solva, slk. Ostrihom, lat. Strigonium

Esztergom (historically: Gran, population in 2024: 28,521) is a city in northern Hungary. It lies directly on the Danube, across from its former suburb, the present-day Slovak city of Štúrovo. Esztergom is one of Hungary’s oldest cities. In the 11th and 12th centuries, it was the country’s capital. The Archidiocese of Esztergom was established in 1002, though its seat was located in Trnava and later Bratislava during the Ottoman rule from 1543 to 1683. Today, automobile manufacturing is the city’s most important economic sector.

 had been scheduled for their first night on Hungarian soil, however, the time required for bureaucracy and inspections meant that they did not reach the town by nightfall. Instead, they were forced to make an unplanned stop in 
Nyergesújfalu
deu. Sattel-Neudorf, deu. Neudorf

Nyergesújfalu (population in 2024: 7,206) is a town in northern Hungary, located directly on the Danube, which forms the border with Slovakia. Its German name, Sattel-Neudorf, was given by Swabian settlers who were resettled there in the mid-18th century by the Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa (1717-1780). They were intended to bring about an economic revival in the region, which had been liberated from Ottoman occupation.

.
There, a chance acquaintance quickly put the Danube Friends in touch with the principal of the local secondary school, who offered the group accommodation in the school’s gymnasium. In return, the Danube Friends invited the principal and the teachers, who lived in the neighboring school building, aboard the Ulm Box for a glass of Austrian wine. They promised to call at the town again on their next Danube journey.12 

A Curated View

The following morning, the Danube Friends explored Esztergom together with a German-speaking tour guide, commissioned by IBUSZ, and her husband. The pair were “delighted beyond measure”13 to welcome the visitors from Vienna. Photographs in the album show the typical sights—the Christian Museum, the cathedral, and the castle.
One image, however, once again points to the political circumstances: it shows the Maria Valeria Bridge between the “twin towns” of Esztergom and 
Štúrovo
slk. Parkan, deu. Gockern, hun. Párkány, tur. Ciğerdelen

Štúrovo (population in 2025: 9,221) is a city in southern Slovakia. It is also known by its Hungarian name, Párkány. The German name for the city is Gockern. Štúrovo lies on the Danube, which forms the border with Hungary at this point. The town was founded in the 16th century on the site of the village of Kokot, which was destroyed to make way for an Ottoman fortress. After the defeat of the Ottoman army in 1683, the area once again became part of the Habsburg Monarchy. In 1948, the town was renamed from Parkan to Štúrovo in honor of the Slovak writer and philologist Ľudovít Štúr.

, which had been destroyed in 1944 and, owing to the strained relationship between Hungary and Czechoslovakia, was still not rebuilt.
In the late afternoon of the same day, the Stadt Ulm finally reached Budapest. For the Danube Friends, the arrival in the Hungarian capital was a historic moment, which they captured in a photograph.
On the Hungarian side, the small vessel from Swabia attracted little attention. However, the group was once again welcomed by representatives of IBUSZ. The travel agency had booked the Danube Friends rooms in the state-run Hotel Astoria. They were also accompanied by a guide—referred to in the travel account as “Friend Emmerich”—who showed them around the city for several days, until they set off on 28 June for the journey home to Vienna by “express train.”
Numerous photographs taken during these tours fill the final pages of the album, including images of Heroes’ Square, the Fisherman’s Bastion, the Trinity Column, and the castle. 

Separation and Connection

The Danube Friends took advantage of the opportunities offered by the slowly emerging tourism sector in the countries behind the Iron Curtain to send an Ulm Box to Budapest for the first time since regular river traffic had ceased. The redrawing of borders after the First World War had merely been the beginning of further territorial shifts that gave rise to numerous conflicts. Throughout their journey, the Danube Friends repeatedly came across traces of these conflicts. They also experienced first-hand the legacy of the Second World War and the influence of socialist rule.
Official commemoration of the shared history of Danube voyages was not possible in the socialist Eastern Bloc. One indication of this is a report published in a Budapest newspaper, which announced the arrival of the Ulm vessel, but described the Danube Friends as “transport workers” who had travelled to the Hungarian capital at the invitation of the nationalized logistics company MASPED. Through personal encounters, however, the Ulm crew did succeed in establishing some human connections along the Danube.
English translation: William Connor

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