Cycling into the Past

Shtetl Journeys of Young Jewish Intellectuals in the 1980s
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How were young Jewish people in the final decades of the Soviet Union able to discover and live out their Jewish identity? A network of friends from Leningrad set out to visit places of former Jewish life in Ukraine and Belarus that had been left behind after the Holocaust.

A Melancholic Retrospect: “The Journey Continues”.

A film of just under an hour is available on YouTube under the title Journey to Medzhibozh. It features footage from a journey made in 1988 by a group of Jewish friends from 
Sankt-Peterburg
rus. Leningrad, deu. Sankt Petersburg, eng. Saint Petersburg, rus. Санкт-Петербург, rus. Ленинград, rus. Петроград, rus. Petrograd, rus. Sant-Piter-Burh, rus. Sankt-Piter-Burh

Saint Petersburg (population in 2024: 5,645,943, of which 4,732,198 live in the city proper) is a metropolis in northeastern Russia. It is the country’s second-largest city after Moscow. The city was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great at the mouth of the Neva River in the Baltic Sea. From 1712 to 1918, it was the capital of Russia. Alongside Moscow, St. Petersburg is Russia’s most important site for industry, education, culture, and trade, as well as one of its most important ports. From 1914 to 1924, the city was known as Petrograd, and from 1924 to 1991, as Leningrad.
During World War II, the city was besieged by the German Wehrmacht from September 8, 1941, to January 27, 1944—a total of 871 days. Over one million civilians died in the city, which had been systematically cut off from all supplies.

Historische Orte
Russian Empire
  (
rus. Российская империя, rus. Rossijskaja imperija, eng. Russian Empire, deu. Russisches Zarenreich, rus. Всероссийская империя, rus. Wserossijskaja imperija, deu. Kaiserreich Russland, deu. Russisches Kaiserreich, deu. Russisches Reich, deu. Russländisches Reich, deu. Russländisches Kaiserreich
)
 and 
Moskva
eng. Moscow, deu. Moskau, rus. Москва, rus. Kučkov, rus. Kučkovo, rus. Кучков, rus. Кучково, rus. Moskov, rus. Moskovʺ, rus. Московъ, rus. Москов

Moscow (population 2024: 13,146,907) is the capital of the Russian Federation and the most populous city located entirely in Europe. It is situated in the west of the country. Moscow is also the capital of the Central Russian Federal District. The administrative unit “City of Federal Significance Moscow” includes several other towns and has a population of 13,258,262. The city is by far the most important political, economic, scientific, and cultural center of the country.

Moscow was founded around the 11th/12th century. The construction of the fortification (Kremlin) is dated to the beginning of the second half of the 12th century. In the 13th century, Moscow became the capital of a sub-principality of the Grand Duchy of Vladimir. In the 14th century, the princes of Moscow established themselves as rulers of the entire Rus. However, from 1247 to 1480, it was required to pay tribute to the Golden Horde, which devastated Moscow in 1238. In 1571, the city, which was almost entirely built of wood, was burned down by Tatar troops. By this time, however, Moscow was already the undisputed center of power in Russia. In 1687, the city's first college was opened, followed by its first university in 1775. Peter the Great moved the capital to Saint Petersburg in 1712. Weakened by unrest and plague, Moscow's development lagged behind that of the new capital. The invasion of Napoleon's troops in 1812 brought a deep cut in Moscow's development, with the city's population setting their houses on fire to repel them. The rapid reconstruction gave Moscow a modern cityscape.

After the October Revolution and the relocation of the capital back to Moscow in 1918, the city experienced an enormous expansion of its public infrastructure, and numerous prestigious buildings were erected until World War II. However, the expansion of residential space was never able to keep pace with population growth. This growth could not be slowed down, even by various restrictions on in-migration, some of which are still in force today. However, the city also grew through incorporations, particularly in 1960 and 2012.

In 1980, Moscow hosted the Summer Olympics. In the years that followed, however, the growing crisis in the Soviet Union also affected the city, which, following decentralization movements in the republics and unrest in Russia itself, was ultimately directly affected by the attempted coup in 1991. After the final collapse of the Soviet Union at the end of 1991, Moscow remained the capital of Russia. Since then, the city center in particular has been increasingly characterized by modern, prestigious buildings. Other features of the city's development in the post-Soviet era include the reconstruction of churches destroyed or repurposed during the Soviet era, the renovation of pre-Soviet buildings in the city center, and the expansion of transport infrastructure on the outskirts.

 to 
Medžibìž
pol. Międzybóż, ukr. Меджибіж, yid. Mežibiž, yid. מעזשביזש, pol. Międzybuż, pol. Międzyboż

Medzhybish (population 2021: 1,237) is located in the western Ukrainian oblast of Khmelnytskyi. Shortly after being granted city rights in 1593, Medzhybish established itself as one of the most important trading towns in the eastern part of Poland-Lithuania, benefiting from its location close to the borders with Russia and the Ottoman Empire. However, its geographical location also led to numerous conflicts, which culminated in a period of Ottoman rule. In 1772, Medzhybish was annexed by Russia in the first partition of Poland.
Of its multicultural and multiethnic population (Poles, Jews, Ukrainians, Armenians, Greeks, Germans, Tatars), it was above all the Hasids who left a deep mark on the town. The founder of this mystical movement in Judaism, Israel ben Eliezer, and some of his students and later also Rabbi Nachman of Brazlaw worked here.
The decline that was already becoming apparent towards the end of the 19th century finally led to the town being downgraded to an urban-type settlement after 1924.

, a town in western Ukraine.1 Since the early 1980s, small groups of friends had been travelling through the Pale of Settlement — the historic region from which many of their grandparents had once migrated to Leningrad and Moscow. Since the Shoah, however, hardly any Jews remained in the former shtetls.
Set to a melancholic Yiddish song, the film opens with a rapid sequence of summer landscapes seen through a train window, before turning to street scenes in a tranquil small town. A Russian-speaking voiceover explains: “We are travelling to 
Ukraine
ukr. Ukrajina, deu. Ukraine, ukr. Україна

Ukraine is a country in Eastern Europe. Kiev is the capital and largest city of the country, which has been independent since 1991. Since 2022, the country has been defending itself against a comprehensive Russian invasion, which is directed in particular against the civilian population and the country's critical infrastructure and is part of a war against Ukraine that has been ongoing since 2014 and originated from the Russian Federation with the annexation of the Ukrainian Crimea in 2014.

.” The song, accompanied by Russian subtitles, is introduced as a “song of the bride longing for her parents’ home”. The layering of images, language, and music creates an atmosphere of longing, poised between estrangement and belonging. The pace of the camera gradually slows, and a cow comes into view, ambling along the broad sandy verge of an asphalt road in a place that appears to be half small town, half village. “A water carrier is approaching us,” the voice continues. “Or perhaps it is Israel Baal Shem Tov.” The reference is to Rabbi Israel ben Eliezer, regarded as the founder of Hasidism — the “Master of the Good Name” (Baal Shem Tov) — who lived and is buried in Medzhybizh.
Now the camera pans to an elderly man transporting dented metal milk churns on an old-fashioned wooden cart drawn by two horses. As he disappears from view, another pan follows a young woman — one of the travelers — making her way, more skipping than walking, towards a battered green minibus. “Written on the bus,” a solemn Russian-speaking voice explains, “were the words: Museum Bus. We travelled through Ukraine in it,” without quite knowing “whether we were researchers of the remnants of Jewish life here or its final exhibits.” The museum administration of the fortress in Medzhybizh had made the bus available to the group for their journeys through the surrounding shtetls.
In this way, within just a few moments, the film sketches a broad panorama of the long search that drove these travelling friends: how could they give fuller expression to their Jewish identity, and what impulses might be drawn from the past?
The film now cuts abruptly to a scene showing the realities of the Soviet shortage economy: the bus has run out of gas. Waiting. In the background, the voice of one of the journey’s main organizers, Ilya Dvorkin, can be heard searching for “alternatives” to obtain the ration vouchers needed for the gas station. He succeeds, and with an asthmatic sputter the minibus pulls away from the gas station and the journey continues.
The passengers come into view: alongside Ilya Dvorkin and the young woman are Veniamin Lukin and his family — his wife and their adolescent children. Behind the camera was Vladimir Gorenshtein, born in Leningrad and at the time studying film directing in Moscow. All of them belonged to Jewish circles in Leningrad and Moscow and later emigrated to Israel. The film itself was completed there twenty years later.
But the film is not only a melancholic retrospective. “Our journey continues,” remarks the voiceover from 2008. Their search for a Jewish identity — between the shtetls of the past, Soviet realities, and a new life in Israel — was far from over.

Setting out into the Soviet Union: “From Journeys to Expeditions”

The striking video footage marks a turning point. Five years earlier, in 1983, a small group of friends from Leningrad was still making these journeys by bicycle and staying in tents. By 1988, however, the trips had evolved into larger “expeditions”, attracting a wider circle of participants, including students and others interested in joining. Looking back, Ilya Dvorkin distinguished between “journeys”, where the aim was to “gather impressions and feelings”, and more academically oriented “expeditions”, which were concerned with collecting material.2
In the fall of 1989, these expeditions to Ukraine and 
Belarus
bel. Belarus', rus. Белоруссия, deu. Republik Belarus, deu. Belarus, deu. Weißrussland, bel. Respublika Bielaruś, bel. Беларусь, eng. Republic of Belarus

Belarus (population 2024: 9,109,280, area 207,595 km²) is a country in Eastern Europe that belonged to the Soviet Union until 1991. Its capital and most populous city is Minsk. Belarus borders Ukraine, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Russia.
In Belarusian historiography, the country is viewed in the context of the development of East Slavic principalities, especially Polotsk. From the 13th/14th century onwards, the territories of present-day Belarus belonged to the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. The official language at that time (Ruthenian) emphasizes the importance of the East Slavic upper class in the Grand Duchy. From the 16th/17th century onwards, the former territory of the Principality of Polotsk became known as White Rus'. At the end of the 18th century, the Belarusian territories were annexed by Russia. It was not until 1918 that Belarusian statehood began to emerge, when the Belarusian People's Republic was briefly proclaimed on the territory occupied by Germany during the First World War. In 1919, it was replaced by the Belarusian Soviet Socialist Republic. After several restructurings, it became a founding member of the USSR in 1922. Belarus has been independent since the end of 1991. However, the democracy initially introduced was replaced in 1994 by an autcracy which is increasingly dependent on Russia.

 became the starting point for the founding of an independent Jewish (People’s) University in Leningrad — beginning with evening classes and eventually offering a structured course program. Events unfolded at a remarkable pace: the journeys had begun during the “black years” for Jewish cultural life, when the Cold War was at its height following the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979 and NATO’s Double-Track Decision, and the Soviet leadership had all but closed off opportunities for emigration to Israel. The “expeditions,” by contrast, coincided with a period of growing openness in Soviet society after Mikhail Gorbachev became General Secretary of the CPSU in 1985 and launched perestroika and glasnost.
The Jewish University in St. Petersburg remained, even in the 1990s, less focused on academic scholarship than on giving its students knowledge of — and access to — their own Jewish heritage and identity. For this reason, excursions to the former 
Pale of Settlement
rus. Čerta osedlosti, yid. דער תּחום-המושבֿ, rus. Черта оседлости, deu. Ansiedlungsrayon, eng. Settlement area of the Russian Empire, rus. Čerta postojannoj evrejskoj osedlosti, rus. Черта постоянной еврейской оседлости, yid. der tḥum ḣa-mojšev

The Jewish settlement area, which existed until the revolutionary year of 1917, was established at the end of the 18th century in the course of the three partitions of Poland-Lithuania (1772-1795). It was later expanded to include further Russian conquests with a high proportion of Jews in the southwest. It encompassed the territories of the present-day states of Lithuania, Belarus, Moldova and a large part of Ukraine and Poland, as well as smaller parts of Latvia and the Russian Federation at times. As before the capture of these territories, Jews were prohibited from settling in the (old) Russian Empire, with a few exceptions. The formal basis for the settlement district was created in 1791-1804, but the name itself was not introduced until 1835.

 in the Russian Empire remained an important part of the curriculum.
Until the end of the tsarist empire, the majority of the Jewish population had been forced by restrictions on freedom of movement to live within the Pale of Settlement. After 1918, it was the younger generation that took advantage of new opportunities, leaving behind the confined world of the shtetls — often for Leningrad or Moscow — and seeking to benefit from Soviet promises of equality and social advancement, usually at the cost of assimilation. By the 1980s, the grandchildren of this generation were retracing their families’ migration routes in reverse, traveling through the former shtetls in the hope of learning more about their family origins.

A Religious Search for Meaning: Traces of Hasidism in the Soviet Landscape

For many of the young travelers, exploring their own family histories was an important starting point for the shtetl journeys. Ilya Dvorkin’s first trip, in 1982, took him to 
Vìcebsk
yid. vyṭebsk, eng. Vitebsk, yid. װיטעבסק, yid. vyṭebsq, pol. Witebsk, rus. Vitebsk, rus. Витебск, bel. Віцебск, rus. Witebsk, deu. Witebsk, deu. Wizebsk

Vitebsk (population in 2025: 357,899) is a city in northern Belarus, not far from the Russian border. It is one of the oldest cities in the country. Vitebsk was founded in the 10th century on the Daugava River. In the 13th and 14th centuries, the city was the seat of the same-named principality which was subsequently annexed by Lithuania. With the First Partition of Poland, Vitebsk became part of Russia. In the 19th century, the city developed into an important industrial and cultural center. Jews made up more than half of its population. During the German occupation in World War II, the city’s Jewish population and its culture were destroyed. The city was largely destroyed during the battles to retake it. Since 1991, Vitebsk has been one of the most important cities in independent Belarus.

 in Belarus, the hometown of his grandmother.
The journeys to Ukraine were also inspired by a book by the 
Romania
deu. Rumänien, ron. România

Romania (population in 2024: 19,043,151) is a country in Southeast Europe with an area of 238,397 km². The capital of the country is Bucharest. The state is situated directly on the Black Sea, the Carpathian Mountains and borders Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary, Ukraine and Moldova. Romania was established in 1859 from the merger of Moldova and Wallachia. Romania is home to Transylvania, the central region for the German minority there.

-born Holocaust survivor Elie Wiesel, published in New York in 1972 under the title Souls on Fire: Portraits and Legends of Hasidic Masters. Interweaving these stories with memories of his grandparents’ world of faith, Wiesel retraces the lives of major Hasidic rabbis and scholars.3
The book circulated in Russian translation within Leningrad’s Jewish circles. Ilya Dvorkin later recalled that, at first, he could hardly imagine that the places associated with the figures portrayed by Wiesel might have any counterpart in Soviet reality. One reason was that the Yiddish place names had become barely recognizable in the translation from English into Russian. Even so, Dvorkin decided to try:

I took out the world atlas and found Medzhibozh, although I had been convinced it would be in Poland. I took my bicycle, boarded a train [to Ukraine] to Khmelnytskyi, got on my bike there, and eventually arrived in Medzhibozh. Of course, I was shaken by what I saw […]. There were still Jews there. Everything was completely different.4

Dvorkin’s astonishment at discovering Medzhibozh in the “world atlas” as a place within the 
Soviet Union
deu. Union der Sozialistischen Sowjetrepubliken, deu. Sowjetunion, rus. Sovetskiy Soyuz, rus. Советский Союз, und. Совет Ушем, und. Советонь Соткс, rus. Sovetskij Soûz, und. Советий Союз, yid. ראַטן־פֿאַרבאַנד, yid. סאוועטן פארבאנד, yid. sovətn farband, yid. sovʿtn-farband, yid. sovətn-farband, und. Советтер Союзу, und. Совет Союзы, und. Советон Цæдис, und. Совет Эвилели

The Soviet Union (SU or USSR) was a state in Eastern Europe, Central and Northern Asia that existed from 1922 to 1991. It emerged from the so-called Soviet Russia, the successor state of the Russian Empire. The Russian Soviet Republic formed the core of the union and at the same time its largest part, with further constituent republics added. Their number varied over time and was related to the occupation of other countries (Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania), Soviet republics that existed only for a short time (Karelo-Finlandia) or the division or merger of Soviet republics. In addition, there were numerous autonomous republics or other territorial units with an autonomy status that was essentially limited to linguistic autonomy for minorities.

Before its formal dissolution, the USSR consisted of 15 Soviet republics with a population of approximately 290 million people. At around 22.4 million km², it was the largest territorial state in the world at the time. The Soviet Union was a socialist soviet republic with a one-party system and an absence of separation of powers.

 reveals much about how he saw himself as a metropolitan intellectual and how he viewed the “Soviet periphery.” Discovering important sites of Jewish religion and culture here came both as a shock and an opportunity.
During these first journeys — to Belarus in 1982 and Ukraine in 1983 — Dvorkin and his traveling companions deliberately chose not to take photographs, as he later recalled:
“This was our first trip to Ukraine. The main purpose was TO SEE.”5
Looking back, he regretted this decision. At the time, however, he feared that photography might “darken” the travelers’ impressions and interfere with their efforts to “restore their own connection to history” and “to feel, to see, somehow to experience something important for themselves.”6
As a result, no photographs survive from this first journey to Medzhybizh in the summer of 1983. Even so, the images from the following trip to Medzhybizh in the summer of 1986 suggest the profound impact these experiences had on the travelers from Leningrad: encounters with the remnants of Jewish life, but also with a rural world that offered them a glimpse of everyday life before the Shoah.
Even in 1987, after Dvorkin had already traveled many times through the former Pale of Settlement, the photographs in his photo diary “Journey to Volozhin” still reveal a lingering sense of amazement: that the Belarusian town of 
Voložyn
bel. Waloschyn, rus. Воложин, yid. וואָלאָזשין, bel. Volozhin, pol. Wołożyn, lit. Valažinas, bel. Валожын, bel. Valožyn, yid. Voložyn

Valošyn (population in 2025: 10,064) is a small town in the Minsk Region of Belarus. In the 15th century, the town was part of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. After the Third Partition of Poland-Lithuania in 1795, Valošyn became part of Russia, where it developed into a shtetl. In 1919, it was recaptured by Polish troops, in 1939 annexed by the Soviet Union. Since then, the town has been part of Belarus (independent since 1991). During the German occupation from 1941 to 1944, the Jewish population of Valoshyn was almost entirely exterminated in three separate operations.

, once home to an important Talmudic academy, really existed. It is surely no coincidence that the first two photographs in the album show the Soviet (Russian-language) town sign for “Volozhin,” emphasizing that Valozhyn continued to exist as a “provincial town” on the “Soviet periphery.” It is almost as if, in photographing the “Volozhin” town sign, Ilya Dvorkin is trying to anchor himself physically to a place that had previously existed for him only in imagination, but which he had now encountered in its Soviet reality.

Shtetl Journeys to Ukraine: A Gateway to the Wider World

These journeys, which began as an initiative among a loose network of friends within Leningrad’s Jewish cultural circles and emigration movement, were, in part, shaped by a spirit of adventure and served many purposes. They provided a way to experiment with new ideas, broaden the activities of the Jewish scene, and create greater public visibility for Jewish issues. They also forged connections between the new and old centers of Jewish life: between Leningrad/St. Petersburg and Moscow — important hubs of Jewish culture and dissident activity in the Soviet Union — and the former, highly diverse religious centers of the tsarist empire.
In this way, the shtetl travelers became intermediaries between the few surviving Jews in Belarus and Ukraine after the Shoah and a younger generation in Leningrad and Moscow that had learned little from their grandparents about Jewish culture, history, or religion.
During their journeys, the travelers also came into contact with historians and staff at local history museums and regional archives, who, to their surprise, were often very eager to engage with them. Thanks to their ties to the Jewish emigration movement — and, through it, to intellectuals in Israel, Europe, and the United States — they were able to build bridges. They assumed an important role as mediators and — in a double sense — translators between Western supporters and local activists, historians, and the often elderly members of Jewish communities. In doing so, the shtetl travelers contributed to the transfer of knowledge both within the Soviet Union and across national borders. 
With an increasingly professional approach, the Leningrad group documented and researched the history and material heritage of the former shtetls, making an important contribution to the reemergence of Jewish Studies as an academic discipline at the end of the Soviet era.
Learning Hebrew — and later Yiddish — while deepening their knowledge of Jewish heritage was by no means solely preparation for emigration to Israel. For these young intellectuals, it also created spaces in which, under the conditions of the late Soviet Union, they could quite simply “feel Jewish.”
English translation: William Connor

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