Once the largest Sephardic synagogue in Yugoslavia, the Il Kal Grande was built in 1930 in the center of Sarajevo. After its partial destruction by german soldiers in 1941, the building has fulfilled a number of different functions and had a varied history, that is little known to this day.
Judaism in Bosnia and Herzegovina
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After the Sephardic (Spanish) Jews were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula in 1492, a large number of them were taken in by the 
Ottoman Empire
tur. Osmanlı İmparatorluğu, deu. Osmanisches Reich, deu. Ottomanisches Reich

The Ottoman Empire was the state of the Ottoman dynasty from about 1299 to 1922. The name derives from the founder of the dynasty, Osman I. The successor state of the Ottoman Empire is the Republic of Turkey.

. Initially, the Jewish refugees settled mainly in the port cities of Thessaloniki and 
İstanbul
deu. Konstantinopel, deu. Istanbul

Istanbul (population, 2022: 15,244,936), formerly Byzantium, later also Constantinople, is located on the Bosphorus, the strait that connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara which marks the border between Europe and Asia.
Today's megacity developed from the colony city of Byzantium which was founded around 660 BCE by Doric Greeks on the southwestern shore of the Bosphorus. Emperor Constantine I expanded the city and made it to the new capital of the Roman Empire. After the division of the Empire in 395, Byzantium was the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. After its conquest by the Ottomans in 1453, it became the capital of the Ottoman Empire, initially as Constantinople.
Throughout its eventful history, and due to its location between two seas and continents, the city has been home to people of Muslim, Christian and Jewish religions, and has also experienced some of the largest waves of expulsions, particularly of non-Muslims of Armenian and Greek descent in the 20th century. Today, Istanbul is Turkey's most populous city and one of the largest in the world.

.In the second half of the 16th century, their descendants  moved1 to the territory of present-day 
Bosnia and Herzegovina
srp. Босна и Херцеговина, srp. Bosna i Hercegovina, bos. Bosna i Hercegovina, hrv. Bosna i Hercegovina, eng. Bosnia–Herzegovina, deu. Bosnien und Herzegowina

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a federal state in South-Eastern Europe. The country is inhabited by 3.3 million people and is composed of the political entities Republika Srpska, the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Brčko District. Bosnia and Herzegovina's capital is Sarajevo. The country is considered part of the Balkan Peninsula and borders the Adriatic Sea. Bosnians are the main population group, along with Serbs and Croats.

, where they remained. Still today, 
Sarajevo
hrv. Sarajevo, bos. Sarajevo, srp. Sarajevo, srp. Сарајево

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is inhabited by about 290,000 people and is the only metropolis of the country.

 is home to the largest Jewish community  on Bosnian territory. In 1878, when the country came under the control of Austria-Hungary, another wave of immigration took place as  Ashkenazi
Ashkenazim
 (Central European and Eastern European) Jews arrived here from other parts of the 
Austria-Hungary
deu. Österreich-Ungarn, deu. Donaumonarchie, deu. Doppelmonarchie, deu. Habsburgerreich, deu. Habsburgisches Reich, deu. Habsburgermonarchie, hun. Osztrák-Magyar Birodalom, eng. Austrian-Hungarian Monarchy, eng. Austrian-Hungarian Empire

Austria-Hungary (Hungarian: Osztrák-Magyar Monarchia), also known as Imperial and Royal Hungary Monarchy, was a historical state in Central and Southeastern Europe that existed from 1867 to 1918.

 Of the approximately 14,500 Jews who lived in Bosnia and Herzegovina before World War II (12,500 of them in Sarajevo, one-fifth of the city's population at the time), only 30 percent survived the Shoah. About a quarter of 
Yugoslavia
srp. Југославија, hrv. Jugoslavija, deu. Jugoslawien, slv. Jugoslavija, sqi. Jugosllavia

Yugoslavia was a southeastern European state that existed, with interruptions and in slightly changing borders, from 1918 to 1992 and 2003, respectively. The capital and largest city of the country was Belgrade. Historically, a distinction is made in particular between the period of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia from 1918 to 1941 (also called 'First Yugoslavia') and communist Yugoslavia from 1945 (the so-called 'Second Yugoslavia') under the dictatorial ruling head of state Josip Broz Tito (1892-1980). The disintegration of Yugoslavia from 1991 and the independence aspirations of several parts of the country eventually led to the Yugoslav Wars (also called the Balkan Wars or post-Yugoslav Wars). Today, the successor states of Yugoslavia are Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Kosovo and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

 Jewish survivors joined the socialist partisans and fought in the resistance. After a wave of emigration between 1948 and 1951, between 1,200 and 1,500 Jews still lived in Sarajevo. Another wave of emigration took place during the Bosnian War. The current Jewish population of Bosnia and Herzegovina amounts to less than 1,000 people, 700 of whom live in Sarajevo
The necessity of a main synagogue
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There had been calls for the construction of a representative main synagogue since the turn of the century, as Sarajevo's previous Sephardic synagogues could no longer accommodate the growing number of congregation members. The city's position as the second largest Sephardic center in the Balkans after Thessaloniki also led to demands for an appropriate sacral building. In addition, the independent and numerically much smaller Ashkenazi community had had a representative place of worship in the center of Sarajevo since 1902. 
The main synagogue at that time, which dated back to the 16th century, could only seat around 500 of the more than 5,000 members of the Sephardic congregation. However, all attempts to finance the large-scale project were unsuccessful due to a lack of interest and energy. 
The outbreak of the First World War also prevented any plans for a new building. The war began symbolically with the assassination of the Austrian heir to the throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, and his wife Sophie, Duchess of Hohenberg, by Gavrilo Princip in Sarajevo on June 28, 1914. Bosnia and Herzegovina subsequently became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes in 1918 and the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. 
The planning of the synagogue
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It was not until 1923 that a committee for the construction of a new main Sephardic synagogue was formed under the chairmanship of the community president, Avram Mayer Altaraz. The following year, a suitable plot of land was purchased near the National Theater by Josef Baruh. 
After an international competition in which 45 architects from a number of European countries participated, the Croatian-Jewish architect Rudolf Lubynski from Zagreb was chosen. Lubynski, who had studied in Karlsruhe, combined characteristics of German Reform synagogues of the early 20th century with the Orientalizing style of the 19th century.2  While preparing sketches of the building, he formulated his main idea as follows: 

In this city that stands at the crossroads of Eastern and Western culture, which despite all the attacks of different actors and in different eras has been able to preserve its distinctiveness and special mentality for many years, [...] I have come to the conclusion that only a temple modeled on the spirit of the Moorish style, with the appropriate use of materials, modern construction and division of spaces, will fully correspond to the city, the location, the mentality and the purpose.3

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The choice of the neo-Moorish architectural style is not accidental. Through this form of architecture, the building references not only the monumental buildings designed in Austro-Hungarian times in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but also, and in particular, the ancestral origins of Sephardic Jews on the Iberian Peninsula.
The consecration of the synagogue
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The foundation stone of the new main Sephardic synagogue Il Kal Grande ("Great Temple") was laid on June 13, 1926, and the building was solemnly opened on September 14, 1930. It was to be Sarajevo’s last monumental building in the Orientalizing style. The consecration of the sacral building was attended by emissaries of the Yugoslav king, representatives of the royal government, the highest civil and military authorities, non-Jewish denominations, and leading Jewish dignitaries from all parts of Yugoslavia, who participated in the event. The synagogue was crowned by a 36-meter-high Byzantine dome covered with copper plates. The synagogue had a seating capacity of almost 1,000 and also contained a weekday synagogue with 200 seats, a room for weddings, community office, rabbinate, library, archives, and a small museum.
 
The consecration was performed by the Grand Rabbi of Yugoslavia, Dr. Isak Alkalay, and the Chief Rabbi of Sarajevo, Dr. Moritz Levi. The building had taken four years to construct, and cost 18 million dinars.
World War II and the destruction of the synagogue
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The Axis powers attacked Yugoslavia on April 6, 1941, without prior declaration of war. After the unconditional surrender of the kingdom, it was divided among the warring parties involved. Bosnia and Herzegovina became part of the newly formed satellite state of the "Independent State of Croatia" ("Nezavisna Država Hrvatska"), which was ruled by the fascist Ustasha movement
Ustaše
. This group actively participated in the extermination of Yugoslav Jews. Especially Serbians, Jews and Roma were interned and murdered in more than 20 concentration camps.
Only one day after the German army invaded Sarajevo on April 16, 1941, soldiers of the Wehrmacht – following the example of the so-called “Reichspogromnacht” – stormed the synagogue together with local helpers. They destroyed and looted the temple for two days, stealing movable furniture and fixtures such as chandeliers, benches, windows, and doors. The copper cover of the dome was also removed by local accomplices, leaving a large hole in the roof of the building. In the inner courtyard of the temple, the Nazis burned a large number of books and original documents from the holdings of the library, archive, and museum. Immediately after the first Jews were deported from Sarajevo, their personal belongings were taken to the various synagogues of the city, where German officers and, after them, Ustashi officers helped themselves to the loot. 
When the ransacking was over, the suggestion was made that the building be given to the "Croatian National Museum". However, due to the severity of the damage, this proposition was later ruled out. As a result, the former synagogue was used by the German army as a stable and a garage. An article published shortly after Sarajevo's liberation noted,

The Sephardic temple on Kralja Petra Street, once one of the most beautiful synagogues in Europe, is now littered with straw, dung, and gasoline.4

Socialist Yugoslavia and a Workers' University
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After World War II, the few surviving Ashkenazi and Sephardic Jews joined together to form a community. From then on, the Ashkenazi synagogue served as the main synagogue and community center. The Il Kal Grande was partially destroyed and in a dilapidated condition. The Jewish community received orders to either restore the former main Sephardic synagogue or demolish it. Due to a lack of financial resources, they reached an agreement with the municipal authorities that the building would become the property of the city.
The donation contract of 1946 stipulated a change of ownership in the case of an exclusively cultural use. Various concepts for the building’s future use were tabled, including as a representative cultural center of the city, an opera house, a concert and office building with music and art institutions, or as a central university library. The latter was the favored option of the Jewish community. For cost reasons, the conversion of the building into a cinema was favored by the city, but this was rejected by the Jewish community, as it was an economic purpose and not a purely cultural use.
Despite the consideration of a variety of plans, no final decision was made until 1961, so the building remained more or less in the condition "it had been left in after its demolition at the hands of the fascists and the Ustasha.“5 The inner courtyard of the building was still being used as a garage, but otherwise, the premises were empty and remained unused. Only gradually did the plans for the reconstruction of the building progress.  
After several years of construction, the adapted building designed by Ivan Štraus was reopened in 1965 as the "Đuro Đaković Workers' University". The architect redesigned the former sacral space as a cinema and concert hall with 854 seats.
The Workers' University was opened in December 1965 and, to commemorate the original use of the building as a synagogue, a monument designed by Zlatko Uglijen in the form of a menorah was erected in the courtyard: 

In commemoration of the 400th anniversary of the arrival of the Jews in this region, their contribution to the development of our city, their participation in the struggle for national liberation, and their great sacrifices in World War II, this monument was erected in the temple, which the few surviving Jews gifted to their city.6 

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By 1965, the building had finally lost its Jewish character. But in 1966, before the memorial menorah appeared as the last sign of the former Jewish life of the building, the celebrations of the 400th anniversary of the arrival of the Jews in Bosnia and Herzegovina took place in the hall of the former temple, attracting a large number of international participants. This was to be the last time that a Jewish community would fill the building.
The wish expressed by the local Jewish community for the building to become a cultural center of the Bosnian capital was granted. The former synagogue became a venue for events ranging from symphony orchestra concerts to rock band performances.
The Cultural Center and Bosnia and Herzegovina's independence
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With the outbreak of the  Bosnian war
Bosnian war
The Bosnian War is the name given to the conflict within the Yugoslav Wars of Disintegration that lasted in Bosnia and Herzegovina from 1992 to 1995. After a referendum on the independence of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the proclamation of a Bosnian Serb republic, as well as the international recognition of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina by the European Community, war broke out in April 1992. Bosnian Muslims demanding an independent Bosnian state, Bosnian Serbs (supported by troops of the Serb-dominated Yugoslav People's Army) demanding annexation to Serbia, and Croatian Bosnians (supported by the Croatian army) wanting to join Croatia were pitted against each other. Approximately 100,000 people died in the course of the war. In Srebrenica, Serbian units committed the first genocide on European soil since World War II in July 1995, killing more than 8,000 Bosniaks.
 and the dawn of a new era of independence, the renamed "Bosanski Kulturni Centar" (Bosnian Cultural Center), which was opened in 1993, briefly became the center of world attention. A variety of cultural events were hosted here during the 1,425-day siege of the city.
In 1993, a beauty contest for "Miss Besieged Sarajevo" was held, which was won by 17-year-old Inela Nogić. Together with the other contestants, she held up a banner reading "Don't let them kill us" at the end of the event. The photo of the contestants went around the world and became a symbol of civil resistance to the war. Inspired by this, the Irish rock band U2 recorded the song "Miss Sarajevo" with the Italian opera singer Luciano Pavarotti.
Even after the end of the Bosnian war, the building of the former synagogue continued to be one of the most important cultural sites in the Bosnian capital. To this day, the building serves as the central venue for the "Sarajevo Film Festival," which was created as an act of protest during the siege of the city. It developed into the largest and most important film festival in southeastern Europe and is held annually in August.
Only gradually are people coming to terms with the building's Jewish past. In addition to the memorial menorah and the small Jewish souvenir store, the administration of the Bosnian Cultural Center, in cooperation with the Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is planning a permanent exhibition on the history of the building and its use in the coming years.
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English translation: William Connor

Siehe auch